After introducing a new way of looking at and telling time with orbital hours and minutes, which garnered the Mechanical Exception Prize at the most recent Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), GENUS explores the world of metal artisanship.
The GENUS GNS1.2 TD is carved from a block of Damascene Titanium, the work of expert metalsmithing. Thus, the complex representation of time in flux belonging to GENUS finds itself echoed by the moiré, undulating, changing appearance where colour nuances make each piece unique by the very nature of this craft.
An ancient technique that involves a savoir-faire as challenging as it is subtle. It is called Mokume-gane in Japan, where the method has been used for making katana sword blades since the 17th century. In the heart of the forge, the hammering and folding of layer upon layer of titanium is a craft reserved for the best. Three times as hard as steel, titanium is also wrought at much higher temperatures, between 1,200 and 1,400 degrees Celsius. The hues obtained through blueing-by-hand over an open flame are unique to each watch. The buyer is welcome to attend this finishing stage and choose the intensity of the color effects.
THE ART OF DAMASCENING
The art of damascening consists of forging sheets of metal layer by layer. After having been hammered, each sheet is folded back upon itself, and the operation is repeated as many times as necessary one might say like preparing the laminated dough used for puff pastry. This homoge- neous 'stacking' of homogeneous layers, each one annealed between each fold, gives the material an entirely new, very particular aspect. Each incision, each bevel into the edge of the dama- scened metal reveals the strata, the shapes, the undulations, the unique character of each layer.
The difficult work, at the heart of the forge's embers, of folding and layering is usually done with iron or steel for katana blades. Although 40% lighter, titanium is three times harder and can be forged at temperatures 300 degrees higher than for conventional watchmaking steel. This makes the method, which remains largely manual, quite laborious, and complex.
In addition, to further enrich the appearance of this basic mate- rial, GENUS works with layers of various titanium alloys, each of which exhibits a different tint and reaction to heat. The colourful effect is rendered even more visually arresting by the final heat treatment that determines the general tone of the metal block, along with its subtle differences in tints and hues.
A REMARKABLE FIRST YEAR
Since officially launching GENUS in June 2019, the brand's co-founders, Sébastien Billières and Catherine Henry, had an ex- tremely busy year. It began at a frantic pace with the registration of their masterpiece as an entry in the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) competition. This prestigious event served both as a launch pad and a media sounding board for GENUS. In September, the GNS 1.2 WG was shortlisted by the GPHG jury, and in November 2019 it won the Mechanical Exception Prize.
Catherine Henry and Sébastien Billières, co-founders of GENUS, receive the prestigious Mechanical Exception Prize at the GPHG 2019.
Technical Specifications:
The case, in Damascene titanium, measures 43mm x 13.1mm. Damascene titanium crown with G-E-N-U-S letters in relief around its circumference. It has a domed AR-coated sapphire crystal, an AR-coated sapphire display back, and it is water resistant to 30 meters.
Movement is the Swiss manual-wind GENUS in-house caliber 160W-1.2 with 26 jewels, 18,000 vph and a power reserve of 50 hours. It features a Swiss anchor escapement and hairspring, and a variable inertia balance wheel. The main plate and bridges are made of 18kt gold obtained through an ecologically and socially responsible supply chain, certified by the RJC (Responsible Jewellery Council). Gold has anti-magnetic property and is therefore largely protected from the harmful influence of magnetic fields.
The dial features 12 satellites/peripheral and axial rotation indeces (patent pending), 12 free-moving components circulate between 2 counter rotating wheels (patent pending). Cut-away disc with SuperLuminova.
Twelve satellites, one for each hour. They make a complete revolution along the periphery of the movement, at the crystal's edge, once every twelve hours. The fixed white arrow on the left, in front of which the satellites scroll, points to the current hour. To remain in the reading direction, the satellites re- orient themselves and pivot 90 degrees every 3 hours, i.e. four times. The hour numbers moulded in SuperLuminova and affixed to the revolving time-indicating satellites are the result of meticulous development and design.
It comes on a navy blue calf leather strap with a Damascene titanium buckle. Other strap options are available.
MSRP is 145,000 Swiss Francs.
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