Richard Mille has bitten into a juicy new realm of graphic, emotional and chromatic expression. The Richard Mille Bonbon Collection comprises 10 models, each produced in an edition of 30 pieces. Together, they articulate a sweet and tangy new vision of watchmaking. Composed of candies, pastries and fruit, these 10 horological treats once again subvert existing conventions, habits and expectations. Drawing on avowed expertise in the area of materials, colour and form, Richard Mille has taken the lid off a candy jar to reveal two kinds of confections for the wrist.
Based on three of the brand's iconic models, the RM 07-03, RM 16-01 and RM 37-01 offer a passage back to childhood with the simple pleasure of slightly regressive and thoroughly tasty memories, to be enjoyed without moderation. 'The idea was to revisit the existing collections while playing with colour. This allowed me to bring out a pop-inspired sense of fun.
In all, we developed a palette of 60 colors for this unisex collection,' explained Cécile Guenat, artistic director for the collection.
Foretaste
Despite its disruptive appearance, the Richard Mille Bonbon Collection is directly descended from earlier Richard Mille creations. Take colour--the brand is continuously expanding its range. Forays into the spectrum of greens, crimson, yellow and even pink are possible thanks to a mastery of materials, many of them exclusive, that is a Richard Mille specialty. The brand's understanding of how tinted ceramics behave, expertise in layering materials like Carbon TPT® and Quartz TPT® and constant improvements to the setting of coloured gemstones are all ingredients in these confectionary recipes, which are singularly imaginative, playful, distinctive and, most importantly, appetising. Lastly, a finely honed eye for detail makes these 10 models stunning graphic compositions that offer a wealth of shades and textures appearing in every component of the watch. The crowns and some of the caseband, for instance, take the shape of a particular treat, such as a cupcake or gelato.
Great delights
The Sweets collection comprises four models, all with two-tone ceramic cases that set off their grand feu enamel or black-chromed titanium confections. The RM 07-03 Cupcake, RM 07-03 Marshmallow, RM 37-01 Sucette and RM 16-01 Réglisse are colourful and delectable, evoking a whole spectrum of flavours. Better yet, the textures you expect to encounter upon biting into these sweets are conjured visually thanks to a mastery of enamelwork that succeeds in evoking sensations like softness, crunchiness, and fluffiness. The creamy quality of the TZP ceramic case is enhanced by the varied matt and polished effects of elements on the dial. Black, a foundational colour in the technical vocabulary of Richard Mille, is presented in a whole new light here, as a giant roll of liquorice that occupies the entire surface of a dial. Here, the most satisfactory solution for obtaining the liquorice shape of the RM 16-01 was a stamping operation, followed by a black chrome coating that lends this piece its spot-on colour and texture.
Tiny treats
The Fruit line is a homage to the very concept of sweet temptation in six delectable flavours: Lemon and Strawberry (RM 16-01 Citron et Fraise), Blueberry and Litchi (RM 07-03 Myrtille et Litchi), Kiwi and Cherry (RM 37-01 Kiwi et Cerise). In addition to colour-gradient cases made of Carbon TPT® combined with Quartz TPT® of a different hue for each model is an all-new turquoise colour. Painted in acrylics and lacquered by hand, the 3,000 miniature sculptures integrated in these compositions stand out from the dials, turning each one into a sachet full of tiny candies. To further enhance their realism, a 'sugar coating' effect was achieved using powdered enamel and the fine sand employed in hourglasses. Tart jelly ribbons, twisty lollipops, candy citrus segments, gumdrops and other surprises are positioned on plates of grade 5 titanium that are machined and skeletonised like horological components.
Regressive pleasures
From velvety marshmallow or custard cream to the crunch of hard candies and lollipops and tangy tartness of citrus quarters... Applying the science of materials and textures to the realm of confectionary, Richard Mille has embarked on a vast collection of delicious and powerfully evocative pieces. Whether in the Sweet or Fruit line, every watch in the Bonbon Collection is mouth-wateringly appetising, and promises a moment of horological extasy.
RM 16-01 Automatic Reglisse
CALIBRE RM16-01: Skeletonised automatic-winding movement with hours, minutes, date and adjustable rotor
geometry.
Dimensions: 50.20 mm x 38.00 mm x 9.88 mm.
POWER RESERVE
Circa 55 hours (±10%).
BASEPLATE AND BRIDGES MADE OF GRADE 5 TITANIUM
The baseplate and the bridges are crafted of grade 5 titanium, a biocompatible, highly corrosion-resistant and remarkably rigid alloy, which enables the gear train to function effortlessly. The alloy, electroplasma treated, is 90% grade 5 titanium, 6% aluminium and 4% vanadium. This combination further increases the material's mechanical properties, which explains its frequent use in the aerospace, aeronautics and automobile industries.
The skeletonised baseplate and the bridges were subjected to intensive and complete validation tests to optimise their resistance capacities.
DATE DISPLAY
Semi-instantaneous, placed in a vertical aperture at 7 o'clock. The calendar disc of sapphire crystal is treated with nonreflective coating on both sides.
FREE-SPRUNG BALANCE WITH VARIABLE INERTIA
The free-sprung balance offers better reliability in the event of shocks, movement assembly or disassembly, and also guarantees better chronometric results over time. The regulator index is eliminated, and a more accurate and repeatable calibration is possible thanks to 4 small adjustable weights located directly on the balance.
VARIABLE-GEOMETRY ROTOR
The RM 16-01 uses a variable geometry system to optimise the rotor's winding motion.
Rotor specifications
- Arm in grade 5 titanium - 18K white gold weight segment - Weight segment with 6 positions adjusted by screws in grade 5 titanium - 18K white gold wings, high palladium content - Ceramic ball bearings - Unidirectional; anti-clockwise winding direction
This exclusive Richard Mille design makes it possible to effectively adapt rewinding of the mainspring to the user's activity level, in sporting or non-sporting environments. By adjusting the six-position rib, the rotor's inertia is modified to either speed up the winding process in the case of leisurely arm movements, or to slow it down during sporting activities.
DOUBLE-BARREL SYSTEM
The double-barrel system helps to improve torque stability over a longer period. This is achieved by distributing the stored energy across two winding barrels instead of one, which increases the number of rotations and reduces pressure on the teeth, bearings and pivots, resulting in better long-term performance.
SPLINE SCREWS IN GRADE 5 TITANIUM FOR THE BRIDGES AND CASE
This permits better control of the torque applied to screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
OTHER FEATURES
- Movement dimensions: 30.25 x 28.45 mm - Thickness: 4.44 mm - Jewels: 32 - Barrel arbour: in AP 20 steel
- Balance: Glucydur®, 4 arms, moment of inertia 4.8 mg•cm2, angle of lift 53° - Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz) - Balance spring: elinvar by Nivarox® - Shock protection: INCABLOC 908.22.211.100 (transparent)
- Escapement wheel jewels: Rubifix (transparent) - Three-position stem: Manual winding, date, time setting
CASE
This rectangular watchcase marked the first appearance in the Richard Mille collection of a new shape with its own particular identity. It retains the characteristics and attention to detail of previous case designs, with a vast number of stamping and machining operations required for the three main components (bezel, caseband and caseback). The design and execution of the watch exemplify a holistic approach to conception of the movement, case and dial.
Richard Mille has turned to new coloured ceramics for the RM 16-01 Réglisse: blush pink TZP ceramic for the bezel and yellow TZP ceramic for the back case. This low-density material (6g/cm3) is highly scratch-resistant material (1,400 Vickers) and has a low thermal conductivity coefficient.
Constituted of 95% yttrium-stabilised zirconium, TZP has a fine grain that holds a perfect finish. A long and difficult machining and grinding process using diamond tools is necessary to create the complex forms of the bezels.
The RM 16-01 Réglisse caseband is made of white gold, satin finished, microblasted and polished by hand.
The tripartite case is water resistant to 30 metres, ensured by 2 Nitrile O-ring seals, and is assembled using 12 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and abrasion-resistant washers in 316L stainless steel.
DIAL
In grade 5 titanium, black chrome treated Thickness: 1.40 mm
CRYSTAL
Bezel side: in sapphire (1,800 Vickers) with anti-glare treatment (2 sides) Thickness: 1.15 mm Caseback: in sapphire with anti-glare treatment (2 sides) Thickness: at the center 0.67 mm and outer edges 1.05 mm
FINISHING MOVEMENT
- Baseplate and bridges in hand-ground grade 5 titanium, wet sandblasted, electroplasma treated or Titalyt® treated - Burnished pivots - Sandblasted bridges - Diamond-polished sinks on the bridge side
STEEL PARTS
- Sapphire-blasted surfaces - Anglage and polishing by hand - Screw slot and screws bevelled and polished with rounded and polished tip
WHEELS
- Sandblasted and rhodium-plated, bevelled wheels (before cutting the teeth) - Minimal corrections applied to the wheels in order to preserve geometry and performance
RM 07-03 Automatic Litchi & Myrtille
CALIBRE CRMA2: Skeletonised automatic-winding in-house movement with hours, minutes and variable-geometry rotor. Dimensions: 45.32 mm x 32.30 mm x 11.93 mm.
POWER RESERVE
Circa 50 hours (±10%).
BASEPLATE AND BRIDGES MADE OF GRADE 5 TITANIUM
Microblasted grade 5 titanium with an electroplasma treatment gives great rigidity to the baseplate, as well as precise surface flatness which is essential for the perfect functioning of the gear train. The bridges are also in grade 5 titanium, microblasted and electroplasma treated.
The skeletonised baseplate and the bridges were subjected to separate and extensive validation tests to ensure optimal strength requirements.
FREE-SPRUNG BALANCE WITH VARIABLE INERTIA
This type of balance wheel represents the ultimate in innovation. It guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shocks and also during movement assembly or disassembly, hence better chronometric results over time. The regulator index is eliminated, and a more accurate and repeatable adjustment is possible thanks to 4 small, adjustable weights located directly on the balance.
VARIABLE-GEOMETRY ROTOR
This variable-geometry rotor has been incorporated into the CRMA2 calibre to makes it possible to effectively adapt rewinding of the mainspring to the user's activity level. The setting can be modified by adjusting two weights that can be adjusted and fixed in place by spline screws. The inertia of the movement is increased when the two weights are closer to each other; the barrel then rewinds more quickly. If the weights are positioned at the extremities of the rotor, the inertia is decreased and the barrel winds more slowly.
Rotor specifications
- Heavy external outside edge and heavy edge ring in 5N red gold - Weight segment in heavy metal - Ceramic ball bearings - Automatic OneWay® ceramic winding system with ball bearings - Bidirectional winding system
FAST-ROTATING BARREL (5 hours per revolution instead of 7.5 hours)
This type of barrel provides the following advantages: - The phenomenon of periodic internal mainspring adhesion is significantly diminished, thereby increasing performance. - Provision of an excellent mainspring delta curve with an ideal power reserve/performance and regularity ratio.
GEAR TEETH PROFILE
The entire going train of the watch, the primary transmitter of power through the movement, utilises a special profile for the teeth of the wheels. Developed specifically for Richard Mille's in-house calibres, the wheels employ a 20° pressure angle. This system equalises any discrepancies that might arise between the centres of each wheel, for instance, during thermal changes and normal use, and promotes excellent torque transmission to the balance wheel, thus supporting excellent chronometric characteristics.
SPLINE SCREWS IN GRADE 5 TITANIUM FOR THE BRIDGES AND CASE
This permits better control of the torque applied to screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.
OTHER FEATURES
- Movement dimensions: 29.90 x 22.00 mm - Thickness: 4.92 mm - Jewels: 25 - Balance: CuBe, 4 arms, 4 setting screws, moment of inertia 7.5 mg•cm2, angle of lift 50° - Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
- Balance spring: AK3 - Shock protection: INCABLOC 908.22.211.100 (transparent) - Escapement wheel jewels: Rubifix (transparent)
CASE
The design and execution of the watch demonstrates a complete conceptual approach to the movement, case and dial. As a result, everything has been constructed according to extremely rigorous specifications and in complete harmony. For example, a casing ring is no longer used, and the movement is mounted on chassis mounting rubbers (ISO SW) fixed by 4 titanium screws. Features such as these are evidence of uncompromising workmanship.
The front bezels of the RM 07-03 Litchi and Myrtille are made from Carbon TPT®, a remarkable material with a unique finish obtained by layering hundreds of sheets of carbon fibres using an automated process that changes the orientation of the weft between layers. Heated to 120 °C in an autoclave similar to those used for aeronautic components, the material is then ready to be machined at Richard Mille. During this phase, the many layers of Carbon TPT® are revealed, creating random patterns that make each piece unique.
The RM 07-03 Litchi caseback employs white Quartz TPT® while the RM 07-03 Myrtille is made of a new turquoise Quartz TPT®. This material is made according to a process identical to that of Carbon TPT®, but from silica threads. The turquoise is a new colour added to the brand's collection. The different colors are achieved by using matrix resins developed specially for Richard Mille by North Thin Ply Technology (NTPTTM).
Their casebands use a gradient of Carbon TPT®/white Quartz TPT® and Carbon TPT®/turquoise Quartz TPT® respectively, creating an elegant color transition from the bezel to the caseback.
The tripartite case is water resistant to 50 metres, ensured by 2 Nitrile O-ring seals. The case is assembled with 12 grade 5 titanium spline screws and abrasion-resistant washers in 316L stainless steel.
DIAL
In grade 5 titanium with grey Titalyt® treatment. Each candy is painted with acrylic paint, lacqued by hand. For the sugar effect, crushed enamel and very thin sand for hourglasses were used. Thickness: 1.60 mm
CRYSTAL
Bezel side: in sapphire (1800 Vickers) with anti-glare treatment (2 sides). Thickness: 1.60 mm Caseback: in sapphire with anti-glare treatment (2 sides) Thickness: at the center 0.95 mm and outer edges 1.67 mm
FINISHING MOVEMENT
- Microblasted anglage - Microblasted-milled section - Microblasted sinks - Electroplasma treatment for the baseplate and the bridges
STEEL PARTS
- Satin-finished surfaces - Hand-polished anglage - Hand-polished sinks - Burnished sections
PROFILE-TURNING
- Lapped and polished ends - Burnished pivots - Polished post faces
WHEELS
- Concave chamfering with a diamond tool - Diamond-polished angles - Circular-finished faces - Rhodium plating (before cutting the teeth)
Thanks.